(Or How I Went to the Northern Caucasus and Lived to Tell the Tale)
I know I haven't posted at all recently, but I have an excellent excuse! This past week I spent the majority of my time from Wednesday through today traveling to and spending time in the Northern Caucasus, specifically Kabardino-Balkaria and its capital, Nalchik.
Austin and I left behind the scenery of Moscow from our dorm at 2:30pm on Wednesday and took a bus to Kabardino-Balkaria. 27 hours later we arrived in the capital city of Nalchik after seeing lots of this as soon as we left the city of Moscow:
We arrived at Nalchik late in the evening on Thursday whereupon we promptly started making rounds around town, meeting various members of Sonya's family. We were very warmly received when we finally reached his apartment, and after showering to get the bus-ness off of ourselves, we sat down to a huge dinner. In the Caucasus the culture is very hospitality and family centric. People welcomed into dwellings as guests are fed enormous amounts, offered endless comforts, and usually said to be under the protection of their hosts. And, damn, did we eat. A typical mom, and a Caucasian one at that, Sonya's mom gave us endless amounts of borscht, plof, salad, ram's meat, fruit, and bread. And vodka. Oh yes, there was vodka. The tradition of toasting throughout the meal is still alive and well in the Caucasus!
The next day we set out to see the mountains and the natural beauty that the Caucasus are so very famous for. I live in the mountains at school, and may I just say, I have never seen anything so beautiful! As you walk, you can practically feel how old the land around you is. There has actually been a decent amount of talk around the academic community in the past few years that the Caucasus may be the seat of man. The highest mountain in Europe, Mount Elbrus, in Kabardino-Balkaria, is believed by some to be the base of the myth of Mount Olympus in ancient mythology.
Our first stop was the Голубое Oзеро (or "The Blue Lake"). Nestled into the rising mountains, the Blue Lake is extremely clear, a stunning blue color from the surface, and a diving destination.
After cooling off on the banks of the Blue Lake since temperatures we're reaching an East Coast norm of 95 degrees, we headed deeper into the mountains. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking and now I understand the lifestyle basis upon which Caucasian cultural ideas were built, which Dr. Isaenko has always been telling me about.
I will also leave you with this awesome graffiti that is close to my heart, as I do, as some of you know, closely study Chechnya and the ongoing insurgency that is overtaking the region's history.
Dinner this day was a quiet affair, and then we all went out to celebrate Sonya's cousin's 18th birthday. Which should have been a hint because the celebration continued all weekend. However, the next day gave us some respite. We explored Nalchik and decided to go swimming. I cannot possible tell anyone how overwhelmingly happy this made me. I miss swimming so much; it's such a hallmark of an American summer. Needless to say, my outlook on life improved greatly after indulging my inner fish.
The remainder of the day was taken up by a massive Caucasian family dinner to continue the celebration of the cousin's birthday. We journeyed through Nalchik to an aunt's house where the living room had been transformed into a dining hall with a table absolutely covered in food. Everything you could imagine and then more. Sonya's family was wonderful and so gracious to have us and to stuff us full of food. They encouraged us to speak Russian as much as we were able to and were very patient with us when we forgot words. It really was the best practice I could have asked for. And of course, in keeping with tradition, there were toasts and shots of vodka all around the table. For several intimidating moments it was my turn to toast in Russian, but I made it out alive and to a happy table. And I'm just going to say this now: Caucasians can drink. Well that and when they found out I'm Ukrainian that only added to their filling of my glass. Oh the irony!
If anything I find that I am at a loss for words to describe my trip and to do it justice. It was an experience of a life time and I have returned with an even greater love for the Caucasian people in my heart. Everyone we met was very congenial, bright-eyed, and so gracious to us. Whether it is all cultural impetus or not, I am duly impressed and forever grateful for their hospitality.
So thus went my adventure to the Caucasus. I have returned without losing a limb to an IED or being shot by an insurgent. (Though I did see a tank rolling down the street my first day there.) I already miss the Caucasus, and I'm so glad that I've chosen such a wonderful and rich place to devote my studies to. And now that I've taken up a good part of your time regaling you with tales of the ends of the earth, I will only leave you with the red Russian sunrise...
Hannah and I have an impressive plan laid out to end our time in Moscow with a sight-seeing bang, so more posts to come!
2 weeks to go! Love and Hugs to all! xoxo
I know I haven't posted at all recently, but I have an excellent excuse! This past week I spent the majority of my time from Wednesday through today traveling to and spending time in the Northern Caucasus, specifically Kabardino-Balkaria and its capital, Nalchik.
Austin and I left behind the scenery of Moscow from our dorm at 2:30pm on Wednesday and took a bus to Kabardino-Balkaria. 27 hours later we arrived in the capital city of Nalchik after seeing lots of this as soon as we left the city of Moscow:
We arrived at Nalchik late in the evening on Thursday whereupon we promptly started making rounds around town, meeting various members of Sonya's family. We were very warmly received when we finally reached his apartment, and after showering to get the bus-ness off of ourselves, we sat down to a huge dinner. In the Caucasus the culture is very hospitality and family centric. People welcomed into dwellings as guests are fed enormous amounts, offered endless comforts, and usually said to be under the protection of their hosts. And, damn, did we eat. A typical mom, and a Caucasian one at that, Sonya's mom gave us endless amounts of borscht, plof, salad, ram's meat, fruit, and bread. And vodka. Oh yes, there was vodka. The tradition of toasting throughout the meal is still alive and well in the Caucasus!
The next day we set out to see the mountains and the natural beauty that the Caucasus are so very famous for. I live in the mountains at school, and may I just say, I have never seen anything so beautiful! As you walk, you can practically feel how old the land around you is. There has actually been a decent amount of talk around the academic community in the past few years that the Caucasus may be the seat of man. The highest mountain in Europe, Mount Elbrus, in Kabardino-Balkaria, is believed by some to be the base of the myth of Mount Olympus in ancient mythology.
Our first stop was the Голубое Oзеро (or "The Blue Lake"). Nestled into the rising mountains, the Blue Lake is extremely clear, a stunning blue color from the surface, and a diving destination.
After cooling off on the banks of the Blue Lake since temperatures we're reaching an East Coast norm of 95 degrees, we headed deeper into the mountains. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking and now I understand the lifestyle basis upon which Caucasian cultural ideas were built, which Dr. Isaenko has always been telling me about.
I will also leave you with this awesome graffiti that is close to my heart, as I do, as some of you know, closely study Chechnya and the ongoing insurgency that is overtaking the region's history.
 |
| "Grozny" -- capital of Chechnya |
Dinner this day was a quiet affair, and then we all went out to celebrate Sonya's cousin's 18th birthday. Which should have been a hint because the celebration continued all weekend. However, the next day gave us some respite. We explored Nalchik and decided to go swimming. I cannot possible tell anyone how overwhelmingly happy this made me. I miss swimming so much; it's such a hallmark of an American summer. Needless to say, my outlook on life improved greatly after indulging my inner fish.
 | |
| Certified International Swimmer :) |
The remainder of the day was taken up by a massive Caucasian family dinner to continue the celebration of the cousin's birthday. We journeyed through Nalchik to an aunt's house where the living room had been transformed into a dining hall with a table absolutely covered in food. Everything you could imagine and then more. Sonya's family was wonderful and so gracious to have us and to stuff us full of food. They encouraged us to speak Russian as much as we were able to and were very patient with us when we forgot words. It really was the best practice I could have asked for. And of course, in keeping with tradition, there were toasts and shots of vodka all around the table. For several intimidating moments it was my turn to toast in Russian, but I made it out alive and to a happy table. And I'm just going to say this now: Caucasians can drink. Well that and when they found out I'm Ukrainian that only added to their filling of my glass. Oh the irony!
If anything I find that I am at a loss for words to describe my trip and to do it justice. It was an experience of a life time and I have returned with an even greater love for the Caucasian people in my heart. Everyone we met was very congenial, bright-eyed, and so gracious to us. Whether it is all cultural impetus or not, I am duly impressed and forever grateful for their hospitality.
So thus went my adventure to the Caucasus. I have returned without losing a limb to an IED or being shot by an insurgent. (Though I did see a tank rolling down the street my first day there.) I already miss the Caucasus, and I'm so glad that I've chosen such a wonderful and rich place to devote my studies to. And now that I've taken up a good part of your time regaling you with tales of the ends of the earth, I will only leave you with the red Russian sunrise...
Hannah and I have an impressive plan laid out to end our time in Moscow with a sight-seeing bang, so more posts to come!
2 weeks to go! Love and Hugs to all! xoxo
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